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Dine, the Saoji style

Masala craft

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MASTERS OF SPICE: Vegetarians shouldn't despair as the finer aspects of Saoji cuisine extend to greens as well

If Nagpur is on the country's food map, it is thanks to an impoverished community of weavers specialising in Saoji food. This cuisine has become so popular in the past decade that patrons prefer to visit joints in shanties, where the best stuff is served, rather than fancy restaurants that also have this humble cuisine on their menus. Saoji is a style of cooking that belongs to the Halba Koshti tribe, a community of professional weavers. In the early 1970s, when power looms replaced traditional methods of weaving, the community was rendered jobless. Many weavers began making a living by cooking and selling home food. Food is mainly cooked by the women of the house. It is typically spicy, non-vegetarian fare, including offal such as khur (trotters) and sundari (stomach) that is served in the homes of weavers. That they are often shabby and unkempt is no deterrent for food lovers.
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